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Forum LockedSkipping stiches in thick material

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irhunter View Drop Down
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    Posted: 23 February 2018 at 12:56pm

Hi,

I am running a Singer 111w151. It is considered a medium duty industrial machine.

Using #69 nylon and, #19 sharps. Sewing multiple layers of 1000D nylon.

All is good until I get to the point where I am sewing through, say, six layers of fabric. Then, I start skipping stitches. It seems that the top thread is not picking up the bottom thread.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Roy

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MattGrant View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattGrant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 February 2018 at 3:42pm
Hi Roy,
Sounds like either a timing issue or that the needle bar is too high.

But first I would try tightening the presser foot tension to make sure the foot just is not popping and reducing the loop size for the hook to catch.

Also make sure you are using a 135X17 needle system and that the needle is oriented properly.

If the above does not do it then it is time to look at needle bar height and timing.

Best Regards,
Matt Grant
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote irhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 February 2018 at 5:22pm

Thanks, Matt.


I am using the correct needle system and my needle is oriented correctly.


I now feel my problem is intermittent...always the worse case. I have a really-thick test swatch, and it is sewing fine. I sew on the project, and I have issues.


I now think changes in thickness are causing me problems...moving from thick-to-super-thick, and back. I will continue to experiment.


I will have a look at foot tension, and then move on to the needle bar and timing.


Roy

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Tejas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Tejas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2018 at 6:14am
Update: After replying I recalled that I had posted the guide to another forum. Scroll down to my second post.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/67749-can-ya-help-a-girl-out/

Copied below are 31 causes and solutions for skipped stitches from a 25-page trouble-shooting document that apparently is no longer available online. Some of the solutions refer to other sections of the document.

Skipping Stitches

1.Cause: The machine is not threaded correctly.
Solution: Check whether the upper thread runs correctly from the spool of thread to the Needle.

2.Cause: An incorrect Needle is used in the machine. The Needle may be too short or too long.
Solution: Remove the wrong Needle and insert a Needle recommended for the machine in use.

3.Cause: The Needle is inserted incorrectly in the Needle Bar. The eye of the Needle is turned in the wrong direction.
Solution: Insert the Needle so that its eye is at a right angle with the direction of sewing and the short groove of the Needle faces the point of the Loop Taker (Hook).

4.Cause: The Needle is bent and does not stitch straight into the fabric.
Solution: Replace the bent Needle with a new straight needle.

5.Cause: Lint or dirt in the Needle hole prevent the Needle from stitching straight into the' fabric.
Solution: Remove lint and dirt from the Needle Clamp, insert a new straight Needle and tighten firmly the screw which holds the Needle.

6.Cause: The Needle is too close to the edge of the stitch hole in the Feed Dog and even strikes the edge of this hole.
Solution: Check whether the Needle is bent. Replace a bent Needle with a new straight Needle.
Check also whether the Feed Dog Screws are loose and tighten these screws firmly, if necessary.

7.Cause: The stitch hole in the Feed Dog is too large.
Solution: Replace the Feed Dog with one that has a smaller stitch hole.

8.Cause: The grooves in the Needle are clogged with dirt and do not permit the loop of the upper thread to form properly.
Solution: Clean the Needle with a soft rag. Be careful not to bend the Needle.

9.Cause: The slot (or the stitch hole) in the Presser Foot is too wide (or the stitch hole is too large). This causes the rising Needle to carry the fabric with it when sewing over thin fabrics, thus preventing the loop of the u~ per thread to form properly.
Solution: Replace the incorrect Presser Foot with one having a correct slot (or stitch hole).

10.Cause: If a one-piece Presser Foot is used, the foot, when sewing from thick to thin fabrics, or conversely, does not hold the fabric down firmly.
Solution: Hold the fabric down by hand while sewing, or replace the one-piece Presser Foot with a Hinged Presser Foot.

11.Cause: The pressure of the Presser Foot upon the fabric is insufficient. The fabric is not held down firmly.
Solution: Hold the fabric down by hand while sewing, or replace the one-piece Presser Foot with a Hinged Presser Foot.

12.Cause: The pressure of the Presser Foot upon the fabric is insufficient. The fabric is not held down firmly.
Solution: Increase the pressure upon the fabric.

13.Cause: The Needle is too close to the edge of the slot (or of the stitch hole) in the Presser Foot.
Solution: Line up the Presser Foot as follows: Loosen the screw that holds the Presser Bar in position. This screw is located behind the Face Plate of the machine. Now turn the Presser Bar until the Needle goes through the center of the slot (or of the stitch hole) in the Presser Foot. Tighten firmly the above screw after this adjustment.

14.Cause: The Bobbin is empty.
Solution: Replace with a filled Bobbin.

15.Cause: The end of the lower thread, which extends from the Bobbin, is too short and cannot be carried along and brought above the Feed Dog by the upper thread.
Solution: Pull more thread (about four to five inches) out of the Bobbin Case.

16.Cause: The upper thread is too heavy for the Needle in use.
Solution: Replace the Needle with one of the correct size. Consult the "Needle and Thread" chapter.

17.Cause: The Needle is too heavy for the thread in use. The thread has too much space in the eye of the Needle.
Solution: Replace the Needle with one of the correct size. Consult the "Needle and Thread" chapter.

18.Cause: The thickness of the upper thread is not uniform. The thread has knots or heavy and thin portions.
Solution: Replace the inferior thread with one of uniform thickness.

19.Cause: The upper thread may be too soft and does not form a proper loop underneath the Throat Plate.
Solution: Replace the thread with one of proper quality. Use a somewhat stiffer thread.

20.Cause: Oil on the upper thread prevents proper formation of the loop underneath the Throat Plate.
Solution: Remove the oily portion of the thread and prevent the upper thread from getting soaked with oil. Carefully wipe oil from Needle, Throat Plate and Loop Taker (Hook) and feed dog.

21.Cause: The Thread Take-up Spring (Check Spring) is not adjusted correctly. It has too much tension or releases the upper thread too late.
Solution: Adjust the Thread Take-up Spring. The upper thread must become loose at the moment the Needle enters the fabric.

22.Cause: The Loop Taker (Hook) is timed too early or too late in relation to the Needle. If timed too early, the loop of the upper thread is still too small to be caught and entered by the point of the Loop Taker. If too late, the loop of the upper thread is already too large and twists sideways, thereby being missed by the point of the Loop Taker.
Solution: Make certain that the Needle is pushed all the way up into the Needle Bar. Also check whether the Needle is timed correctly in relation to the Loop Taker. For "Timing" follow this general rule: The Needle must have risen about 3/32 of an inch from its lowest position at the moment the point of the Loop Taker is just at the center of the rising Needle. At this moment the point of the Loop Taker must be about 1/16 of an inch above the eye of the Needle (see page 00).

23.Cause: The clearance between the Needle and the point of the Loop Taker (Hook) is too large.
Solution: Bring the point of the Loop Taker closer to the Needle. The point of the Loop Taker should be set as close as possible to the needle without touching it.

24.Cause: The point of the Loop Taker (Hook) is blunt, damaged or broken off.
Solution: If the point of the loop Taker is worn or damaged to a minor degree only, sharpen it with a fine emery stone or with fine emery cloth, then polish it with crocus cloth or on a buffing wheel. The material of the Loop Taker must not be taken off from that side of the point that faces the Needle. If the point of the Loop Taker is broken off or if the Loop Taker is defective beyond repair, replace the old Loop Taker with a new one.

25.Cause: The lower end of the Needle Bar is bent. The Needle, therefore, does not stitch straight into the fabric.
Solution: If the machine turns easily, bring' the Needle Bar to its highest position, then tap the Needle Bar lightly with a hammer until the Needle goes through the center of the stitch hole in the Feed Dog.

26.Cause: The Needle Bar or Needle Bar Frame is badly worn. The Needle Bar is too loose in its bearings and sways sideways.
Solution: Replace the worn Needle Bar with a new one. Replace also worn Needle Bar Frame.

27.Cause: The Needle Bar has play (lost motion) in vertical direction. This may be due to the Needle Bar linkage being badly worn.
Solution: Replace the worn and defective parts with new ones.

28.Cause: The Throat Plate is not flat, but is slightly bent downward due to repeated dropping of the Presser.
Solution: If facilities for repairs are available, place the old Throat Plate, top surface down, on a flat surface (surface plate) and straighten it by tapping it carefully with a hammer. If badly defective, replace the old Throat Plate with a new one.

29.Cause: The bottom surface of the Presser Foot does not rest fully (flush) upon the fabric.
Solution: Check whether there is lint or dirt between the Presser Foot and the Presser Bar. Remove lint or dirt and tighten firmly the Presser Foot Screw. Check whether the Presser Foot rests upon the machine. If the Presser Foot is defective, replace it with a Foot that rests with its entire bottom face upon the machine.

30.Cause: The type of fabric to be sewn makes the formation of the loop of the upper thread difficult. The fabric may also be sticky and, therefore, does not permit the proper formation of the loop of the upper thread.
Solution: Experiment with various grades of threads and needles, until a proper stitch can be obtained. It may also be necessary to adjust the Loop Taker (Hook) in relation to the Needle in such a manner that a proper stitch can be obtained. Sometimes it will help to give a different tension to the upper thread or to the Thread Take-up Spring (Check Spring).

31.Cause: A needle thread of the wrong twist is used. The thread unravels and forms an improper loop above the needle eye, thereby being missed by the point of the Loop Taker (Hook).
Solution: Use a needle thread with left twist.

Edited by Tejas - 24 February 2018 at 7:54am
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irhunter View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote irhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2018 at 9:17am

Wow. Thanks Tejas.


I will report back on what works.


Roy

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tejas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 February 2018 at 1:52pm
Originally posted by irhunter irhunter wrote:


I now think changes in thickness are causing me problems...moving from thick-to-super-thick, and back.


Try the following in google:

skipping stitches when changing thickness site:leatherworker.net

Some posts mention "flagging" of material (leather in the posts) when changing layers or thickness. The needle lifts the material and the hook fails to catch the loop.

One remedy proposed was to hold the material down when changing layers.

I haven't experienced this problem, but when sewing over big changes in thickness, I use a jean-a-ma-jig (aka hump-jumper or presser foot spacer). Sew up to the hump, and with the needle buried raise the foot and insert the spacer behind the needle and manually sew up onto the hump. Sew across the hump. To sew off of a hump, while still on the hump raise the foot with the needle buried, insert the spacer in front of the needle and manually sew over the drop-off before removing the spacer.

Jean-a-ma-jigs can purchased from Joann or Amazon.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote irhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2018 at 2:36pm

Thanks.

I am still working on this. Since the problem is intermittent, and I sometimes make >1 adjustment at a time (yes, bad idea), it is tough.

Right now, I have made double-sure the needle is positioned correctly, I have upped my oiling schedule, and increased foot pressure. The foot pressure was at its minimum.

Roy

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote irhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 March 2018 at 11:35am
Originally posted by irhunter irhunter wrote:


 I have made double-sure the needle is positioned correctly, I have upped my oiling schedule, and increased foot pressure. The foot pressure was at its minimum.

Roy



OK, I have been sewing a lot of thick material recently with almost no skipping problems. I think the foot pressure was the answer to my problem. But, it could have been needle alignment or oiling.


I actually stuck a copper wire strand through the needle eye to help me make sure alignment was spot on. I now oil at the start of every day...even if I will only be sewing, on-and-off, for an hour.


Thanks to all who helped.


Roy

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sewso1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 12:54pm
Hello,
I need a manual and foot pedal for a Read's Zig Zag Sailmaker machine. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Tina.
Thanks!
Tina.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattGrant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 1:36pm
I think there is a separate thread somewhere here on this forum about the manual for the olds Read's machine. As for the foot control, something from this link should work:

https://www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines/Sailrite-Sewing-Machine-Parts/Foot-Controls

Your best bet is probably just to wire a new foot control to the existing wiring.
Best Regards,
Matt Grant
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