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Patio swing replacement

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mincher View Drop Down
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  Quote mincher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Patio swing replacement
    Posted: 30 May 2009 at 10:46am
I need to replace the cloth components of a patio swing I have (racoons have chewed on it).  I'm sure my questions could go in any number of forum catagories, but I'll pick fabric.
 
I'd like to use Sunbrella.  Which sunbrella do I use?  The main criteria are that this will be outside 24/7 and in the Sierras at our cabin.  Weather ranges from about 20deg and snow to mid-90's in the summer.  The construction is kind of a "hammock" design so across the ~4ft length of the seat it will be supporting the weight of 2 adults.
 
Construction is pretty simple.  Do I use fold over binding tape to finish the edges?  I'm planning on doing it in forest green so there is a matching sunbrella binding tape.  Is there any reason to us basting tape when attaching binding tape or is that used only when joining pieces to prevent puckering, etc?
 
For thread, since it's going to be outside should I use Profilen?  Seems to be the best choice for being outside.
 
Lastly, I'm using an old Sears/Kenmore sewing machine that was my mothers (probably vintage 70's).  I've done some quilting on it, but given this project are there any accessories I should purchase from Sailrite that would make the job easier?  Also, do the needles that Sailrite sells fit this machine?  I think I read that Profilen is best used with a #16.
 
This seems like a very simple project. I'd just like to make sure that I get what I need to keep it that way.  If this works, I'm sure I'll do other similar projects in the future.
 
Thanks,
Dick
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w1ndfall View Drop Down
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  Quote w1ndfall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2009 at 11:00am
Hi Mincher:
 
I'd use either Marine Grade (solids) or Awning Grade (stripes) Sunbrella.  Both are 9.5 oz and will weather well.
 
It is easier to fold the edges twice ( about 1") and sew them down as opposed to binding them.  However, this technique will not work around curves.  If that is the case, you must bind the edges.
 
Profilen thread is a good choice, but because you are not in the tropics, ordinary bonded, UV stabilized V-92 or  V-69 (thinner) will still give at least five or six years of service before you need to restitch.
 
A home machine will typically handle two or three layers of Sunbrella with V-69 thread and an 18 gauge needle (20214).  If your construction requires more layers, or if you have to bind the edges, go to a Sailrite machine.  You will be using V-92 thread and a 20 gauge 17x135 needle (7010).
 
I hope that this helps.
 
Best regards,
Dan Smith
Annapolis Sailrite Store Manager
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mincher View Drop Down
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  Quote mincher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2009 at 3:10pm

Thanks for the reply, Dan.

Is it relatively easy to get a clean, even fold as you describe with sunbrella?  It would seem that the fold-in-half binding tape would just work or is it just over-kill?.  Also don't need basting tape to hold things in place?  When you say to fold over an inch do you mean fold in an inch and and inch again?  Or 2x1/2" folds?
 
For the profelin thread I saw that you recommended a 16ga needle.  Is that correct?
 
I don't think I'd need to sew more than 3 layers to make this (with maybe the exception of sewing over the bound edges).
 
Nothing else I need for my machine to make life easier? Something to hold larger spools of thread, etc.  I'd rather spend the few dollars now and save any potential headaches.
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  Quote w1ndfall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2009 at 3:23pm
It is easy to get a clean fold with Sunbrella.  Just take a ruler and put it on the fold line, then score the Sunbrella with an old nail or a straight slot screwdrver.  Fold 1" over twice and hold this down with 129 basting tape.  Sew the inner edge down.  This technique yields a nice, clean, professional looking edge and has no raw edges that can fray.
 
If you use the above technique, you will be sewing through three layers and possibly the basting tape.  If you bind the edges, you will be sewing through five layers.
 
You may use a 16 gauge or larger needle with Profilen thread.  This stuff does not sew like normal thread.  Becaue it is cut from a flat sheet and not spun like normall thread, you will do well to pull it off the side of the cone, toilet paper style as opposed to pulling it off the top.  A larger needle may allow occasional kinks in the thread (caused by pulling it of the cone improperly) to pass through instead of skipping stitches.
 
The only other thing that you might need is a thread stand (838100) for normal thread or a jury rigged "toilet paper dispenser" for the profilen.
 
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  Quote mincher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2009 at 3:40pm
You guys are really great, thank you.
 
I just started measuring and found that the fabric is 72" wide.  For structural support what is the best way (and where) to join the fabric?  I could stitch down the middle, but I'd suspect that would be where most of the stress would be.  Would I be better off getting a 60" piece in the middle and then a couple 12" pieces along each side? 
 
Also, what's the strongest way to join the pieces? (that's doable by an amateur with a home machine)?
 
And am I better off sticking with buying fabric of the same width since that will assure that I get the same dye lot?
 
Do you use any kind of "glue" to stop the edges from unravelling or do you just always have a finished edge exposed?  And how does one do that when joining the pieces as I describe above?
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  Quote w1ndfall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2009 at 4:00pm
I'd go ahead and put the seam down the middle.  Use either a semi-flat felled seam or a flat felled (french) seam to unite the pieces.  Both of these techniques will have two parallel seams pulling equally and they are very strong.  They are discussed in detail in Jim Grant's The Complete Canvasworker's Guide (35101).  Also, look here for details on line: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Seams/seam_types.htm
 
By all means, buy all fabric the same width and buy it all at once.  Glen Raven (Sunbrella) prides itself in the consistency of dye lots, buy minor differences are possible.
 
The best way to keep an edge from fraying is to either cut it with a hot knife or to heat seal (cauterize) it with asoldering iron immediately after cutting.
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  Quote w1ndfall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2009 at 4:05pm
I just looked at the link that I boosted here and their terminology differs from ours.  The section marked "Felled Seam" is actually what I refer to as a semi-flat felled seam.  Their "french seam" is not applicable to your project.
 
The best bet is to go ahead and get Jim Grant's book.
 
Dan


Edited by w1ndfall - 30 May 2009 at 4:06pm
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  Quote mincher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2009 at 3:03pm
I have the fabric now (and the book).  A few last questions before I take the plunge:
 
-Can I assume that the salvege edge of the sunbrella will not unravel?  And that the cut edges of the fabric (from sailrite) are cut with an electric knife and won't unravel?
 
-Previously you talked about scoring the fabric prior to folding to make a finished edge.  Do you score and fold in?  Or score and fold out?  I'm assuming the score is folded inside.
 
-The previous "cushion" of the swing had only poly batting inside of it.  Is there any special type of poly batting to be used? Or is plastic just plastic (as long as it's not exposed to UV)?
 
Thanks and wish me luck.
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  Quote w1ndfall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2009 at 3:09pm
Selvedge will not normally ravel or unlay, but if you fabriccoms with "fuzzy" edges, that is the exception.
 
Fabric ordered from Sailrite is generally Scissors cu and needs t be heat sealed.
 
Once you score the fabric, fold it towards you.  Knowing this will determine which side of the fabric you choose to score.
 
Using dacron or polyester batting will help in the battle against UV.
 
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  Quote MattGrant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 June 2009 at 11:51pm
Cuts across the width of the fabric by Sailrite are not heat sealed. They will ravel unless properly treated during the fabrication process. Furniture Sunbrella fabrics will not score. Dan's mention of scoring only works on marine grade Sunbrella. All hems are folded inside whether scoring or not.
 
Polyester batting is what you want. It is very water resistant.
 
Thanks, Matt
Sailrite
 
Best Regards,
Matt Grant
Sailrite
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